Jerusalem/West
section of Jerusalem that remained under Israeli control after the 1948 Arab–Israeli War
West Jerusalem (also known as "New Jerusalem") represents the modern commercial heart of the city, which was the focus for development in the capital from the time of Israeli independence in 1948 to the reunification of the city with the Six Day War in 1967. However, many of the districts of West Jerusalem date back to the late 19th century when the Old City became no longer able to contain the city's increasing population.
Understand
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Map of Jerusalem/West
The city center of West Jerusalem is a triangle formed by three streets: Ben Yehuda (a pedestrian mall), Jaffa (Hebrew: Yafo) on which the light rail runs, and King George (Hebrew: King George or HaMelech George) which runs perpendicular to Jaffa and carries many bus routes. The three corners of this triangle are Zion Square (see below), the 1 Jaffa Center light rail stop, and the 2 Horse Park (Hebrew: Gan HaSus, after a whimsical sculpture of a horse there). West Jerusalem's shopping, hotels, nightlife, and some museums are concentrated here. This area is a 5-minute walk west of the Old City, along the light rail tracks.
Get in
editSee Jerusalem. When coming from the airport or other places in Israel, West Jerusalem is the first part of the city you will encounter.
Get around
editThe light rail line runs east-west on a single line through West Jerusalem, visiting many of the main attractions.
If you need to go somewhere far from the light rail line, buses or taxis are your best bet (depending on your budget).
Parking is in relatively short supply throughout West Jerusalem. In the city center, driving is difficult too, since streets are narrow. Within Jerusalem, taxis are a better option than a private car.
West Jerusalem is generally relatively flat (much more so than East Jerusalem), so walking is comfortable throughout it.
See
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Landmarks and memorials
edit- 1 The Knesset, ☏ +972 2 675-3420, +972 2 675-3416. Tours: Su-Th 08:30-14:30; sessions: M Tu 16:00, W 11:00. The Israeli Parliament Building. The Knesset offers guided tours (in Hebrew, Arabic, English, French, Spanish, German, Russian, Amharic, Yiddish, and Finnish) for the public. Groups and individuals must call and arrange their guided tour in advance. You can observe the Knesset sessions from the public gallery on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays. Groups must call and arrange this visit; individuals may arrive directly with their identity cards or passports.
- 2 Supreme Court, ☏ +972 2-675-9612. Located between the Knesset and the Central Bus Station, the Supreme Court building (opened 1992) is a mixture of traditional Jerusalem architecture and modern elements. Tours are available each weekday in Hebrew (11AM) and English (noon), or you could sit in on an ongoing court session.
- 3 Mount Herzl (Mount of Remembrance), 1 Herzl Boulevard, Mount Herzl (Mount Herzl light rail station). This is Israel's national cemetery and memorial. It contains the graves of Theodor Herzl and four prime ministers including Yitzhak Rabin. The Herzl Museum is in the entrance plaza. There are memorials for terror victims and MIA soldiers. Near Herzl's grave is the Mount Herzl Plaza for the main ceremony of the opening of the Independence Day. Free.
- 4 Yad Vashem, Har Hazikaron (light rail to Mt. Herzl terminal station, then take the free shuttle to Yad Vashem (every 20 minutes) or walk 10 minutes (museum signs are visible)), ☏ +972 2-6443802, general.information@yadvashem.org.il. Su-Th 09:00-17:00, F and holiday eves 09:00-14:00, closed Sa and holidays. Yad Vashem is Israel's Holocaust museum - documenting the Holocaust, preserving the stories of its six million victims, and teaching future generations through its archives, library, school, museums and recognition of the Righteous Among the Nations. Yad Vashem is a large complex of tree-studded walkways leading to museums, exhibits, archives, monuments, sculptures, and memorials. In addition to the main museum, the underground Children's Memorial is recommended. Each tree on the museum grounds is planted in memory of a different non-Jew who saved Jewish lives during the Holocaust. Children under ten are not allowed to enter the museum proper (IDs are checked) as the material can be disturbing, but they can go to other areas. Large bags must be checked in the Visitors' Center before entering the museum. Free entry; guided tours can cost about ₪30.
- 5 HaPaamon military position (Mutzav HaPaamon). A Jordanian military position from 1948-1967, on the flat land between Kibbutz Ramat Rachel and the Arab neighborhood Sur Baher. In 1967 it was conquered by Israeli forces who circumvented it and attacked it from behind. There is now a tall monument on the site, and just to the south a military post with trenches and bunkers that can be explored. There is a nice view to the south of Bethlehem and its eastern suburbs, as well as parts of East Jerusalem.
Museums and galleries
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- 6 Israel Museum and the Shrine of the Book, Ruppin Blvd (near the Knesset, Bus: 7, 14, 35, 66), ☏ +972 2-6708811, info@imj.org.il. M W Th Sa Su holidays 10:00-17:00; Tu 16:00-21:00; F and holiday eves 10:00–14:00. Israel's national museum sprawls over a compound near the Knesset and covers a broad body and extremely unique body of work in its five wings. The Judaica Wing contains an unequalled collection of Jewish ceremonial pieces, tools, and artwork from throughout the Diaspora, as well as an entire replica of both a 17th century Italian synagogue and an Indian synagogue. Moving on, visitors can find the largest collection of artifacts found in Israel at the Archaeology Wing. The collection covers millenia of settlement in the Holy Land, from the Neolithic ancestors to the Canaanites to the ancient Jews. Probably the best-known wing of the Israel Museum is the onion-shaped Shrine of the Book, wherein the Dead Sea Scrolls, considered among the greatest discoveries of the 20th century, are permanently housed, along with the Aleppo Codex. Nearby is a large 3D model of Jerusalem in the Second Temple period. The Israel Museum also contains notable collections of pre-Columbian Central American Art, Primitive and Tribal Art, and a collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist Art, which, though perhaps less connected to the Jewish state, are worth a visit for art lovers. ₪54, student ₪39, child 5-17 yrs ₪27 (free Tu and Sa).
- 7 Bible Lands Museum (opposite the Israel Museum entrance), ☏ +972 2-5611066, contact@blmj.org. Su-Tu and Th 09:30-17:30, W 09:30AM-21:30, F and holiday eves 09:30-14:00. Laid out chronologically, the Bible Lands Museum provides a detailed look at the ancient societies of the Middle East. The museum's wide range of artifacts from around the region, including among others Egyptian, Minoan, and early Christian works, appeal to a variety of different segments. ₪28, pensioner ₪23, child ₪15, other concessions available.
- 8 L.A. Mayer Memorial Museum of Islamic Art, 2 Palmach St, ☏ +972 2-5661291, fax: +972 2-5619802, islamart@netvision.net.il. M-W 10:00-15:00; Th 10:00-19:00; F Sa 10:00-14:00; closed Su. In the heart of Jewish West Jerusalem, this museum offers "one of the foremost collections of Islamic art" from across the Muslim world and the many centuries of Muslim artwork. It also contains an interesting collection of old watches and clocks. ₪20, students ₪13, youths ₪10.
- 9 Wolfson Jewish Heritage Museum at Hechal Shlomo, 58 King George street, ☏ +972 2 588-9000. Su-Th 09:00-15:00. In the heart of downtown Jerusalem, this museum houses a unique collection of Jewish and Israeli art, with an interesting combination of old and new. ₪15, students and youth ₪10.
- 10 Science Museum, ☏ +972 2-6544888, mada@mada.org.il. Su closed, M-Th 10:00-18:00, F 10:00-14:00, Sa 10:00-16:00. The museum features many "active exhibitions" which invite the visitor to touch and participate. A good choice for those travelling with kids. ₪40.
- 11 Museum on the Seam (Next to the Shivtei Israel light rail stop). A museum which shows art with a socio-political emphasis. From 1948-1967 the only crossing between East and West Jerusalem was here.
- 12 Begin Center. A museum dedicated to the life and legacy of Menachem Begin, the first member of an opposition party to be elected as Israeli Prime Minister.
- 13 [dead link] Museum of Underground Prisoners. The central prison run by British authorities from 1917-1948. Towards the end of that period, many members of underground Jewish militias were incarcerated here, including several who were later executed. Now the site is a museum commemorating the underground movements and their members who went through this prison.
- 14 [dead link] Agnon House, Klausner 16. Home of Nobel Prize-winning author S.Y. Agnon and the place were many of his most famous works were written, this is now a museum documenting his life.
- 15 [formerly dead link] Worldwide North Africa Jewish Heritage Center, HaMaaravim 13. An interesting museum about the heritage of Jews from North African countries. You can only visit by advance reservation and as part of a group of 20 or more. Contact them and they might be able to arrange something.
- 16 Hebrew Music Museum, Yo'el Moshe Salomon 10. A museum that describes the history of Jewish music across different time periods and cultures.
- 17 Gush Katif Museum, 5 Shaarei Zedek St. Gush Katif were the Jewish settlements in the Gaza Strip between 1967 and their evacuation in 2005. This small museum tells the history of Jewish settlement in the Gaza region from a right-wing perspective.
- 18 [formerly dead link] Cable Car Museum, 17 Derech Hebron. In 1948, Mount Zion was an isolated Jewish outpost exposed to Arab snipers on the Old City walls. A cable car was built between West Jerusalem and Mount Zion to safely provide supplies to Mount Zion. In this small museum, you can see the original cable car, as well as documents and other buildings relating to it. It was built as a hospital; now it is the Mount Zion Hotel, and the museum is inside the hotel.
- 19 Friends of Zion Museum, 20 Yosef Rivlin Street, Nahalat Shiv'a, ☏ +972 2 532-9400, info@fozhc.com. Su-Th 09:30-20:45, F 09:30-14:00, Sa 10:00-18:00. This museum brings the stories of non-Jewish help and heroism to the world, who supported Zionism and stood bravely with the Jewish people. Visitors experience the unfolding story as though stepping back in time. Accompanied by a moving original musical score and surround sound, meet the biblical figures, academics, businessmen, and military officials who, through their faith, have forged an everlasting bond between the Jewish and non-Jewish peoples. Adult ₪44, child (7-18) ₪33.
- 20 Levi Eshkol House, Ben Maimon 46, ☏ +972 2 631-3091, beiteshkol@spni.org.il. Su-Th 09:00-17:00, F 09:00-13:00. Israel's Prime Ministers - Ben Gurion, Eshkol, and Golda Meir - lived here from 1950-1974. Now it is a museum about Israeli history and particularly Levi Eshkol's life. Reserve a visit before coming.
- 21 Beit HaRav Kook, ☏ +972 2-6232560. Su-Th 09:00-16:00, F by reservation. The home of Rabbi Avraham Kook, chief rabbi of the Mandate of Palestine from 1921-1935, and the leading thinker of early religious Zionism. Visitors are given a pamphlet guiding them around the house, as well as a 20-minute movie in either Hebrew or English. ₪20.
- 22 Jerusalem Nature Museum. Contains exhibits about animals and the natural world. It is surrounded by a freely accessible park with exhibits including live animals, cultivated plants, and children's toys. Great for a family visit.
Neighborhoods
edit- 23 Yemin Moshe. The first neighborhood of Jerusalem to be built outside the Old City. The Mishkenot Sha'ananim housing project and the landmark windmill were finished in 1860; the rest of the neighborhood was built in the 1890s. Nowadays the neighborhood is quaint, beautiful, surrounded by parkland, and with a direct view of the Old City walls. It's a delightful neighborhood to walk around, both during the day and at night.
- 24 Nachlaot. A picturesque old neighborhood of narrow lanes and courtyards, built starting in 1875. Nowadays it has a distinctive character that is both religious and hipster. On evenings before the High Holidays, "selichot tours" here take you between the various synagogues where Jews of all backgrounds are praying for forgiveness.
- 25 German Colony. A neighborhood southeast of the city center, founded in 1873 by German Protestants of the "Temple Society", who were expelled by the British during World War II. It's now an upscale residential neighborhood full of restored 19th century homes. Its main street, Emek Refa'im, is a wonderful place to drink coffee and to eat in its many cafes and restaurants. You may hear more "Anglos" speaking English than Hebrew on these streets.
- 26 Baka. Another neighborhood just south of the German Colony. This neighborhood has beautiful old Arab-style houses alongside new, modern buildings. There are many nice cafes on the main street of Derech Beit Lechem. This neighborhood too is home to many English-speaking Israelis.
Religious sites
edit- 27 Italian Synagogue, Hillel 25. The center of the Italian-origin Jewish community in Jerusalem. In addition to the synagogue, whose ancient wooden decorations were transferred from Italy and reassembled, there is a museum displaying beautiful art and Judaica. Shabbat prayers are held each week; Shabbat morning prayers begin at 08:30 and are often followed by an Italian-style kiddush.
- 28 Chagall Windows. Famous stained glass windows by artist Marc Chagall in the synagogue of the Hadassah-Ein Kerem hospital.
- 29 Ades Synagogue. A beautifully painted synagogue built in 1901, the center of Israel's Syrian-Jewish community.
- 30 Hesed VeRahamim Synagogue. Built in 1925, this synagogue has a beautifully painted ceiling and interior. Even the outside doors have interesting metal carvings.
- 31 St Andrew's Church, David Remez St 1. Belonging to the Church of Scotland, this church was built in 1927 as a memorial to the Scottish soldiers who were killed during the Sinai and Palestine campaign of the First World War. The church also functions as a guest house, see Sleep section.
Parks
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- 32 Haas Promenade (the Tayelet). A park which has an incredible view of the Old City. It is common for tours to take people here blindfolded, and have them take off their blindfolds one by one to get their first view of the holy city.
- 33 Gehinnom (Gehenna). According to the Bible, this valley was once used for child sacrifice. Due to its association with evil, Gehinnom/Gehenna later became a name referring to Hell. Now, it is a pleasant though somewhat neglected park. If you come at night, you will see the cliffs lining the valley lit up in a variety of colored lights.
- 34 Farm in the Valley (Hava BaGey). In the Gehinnom valley, a farm has been established with lots of animals that little kids will like to see, as well as activities for kids. A good family diversion. Free.
- 35 Ben Hinnom suspension bridge. Israel's longest suspension bridge (200 meters) over the Gehinnom valley. Pedestrian only. Has nice views of the surroundings, and is only a little wobbly.
- 36 Teddy Park. Named after Teddy Kollek, Jerusalem mayor from 1965-1993, this park is located in the valley just below Jaffa Gate. The highlight is a fountain with 256 water spouts which performs a choreographed water show once every 2 hours (check the schedule before coming); you are encouraged to run through the fountain on a hot day. There is also a constantly running water feature which is good for cooling off at any time. There's also some archaeology here, but it's unimportant by Jerusalem standards.
- 37 Independence Park (Gan HaAtzmaut). The main park in Jerusalem's center city. A great place to relax or have a picnic.
- 38 Gan HaPaamon (Liberty Bell Park). The most visited park in Jerusalem, overlooking Mount Zion and the Old City. It features a replica of Philadelphia's Liberty Bell with the Biblical inscription - "Proclaim liberty throughout all the land unto all the inhabitants thereof".
- 39 The Mifletzet. This modern park is a landmark for Jerusalem kids. Its highlight is a giant monster with three tongues, each of which functions as a children's slide.
- 40 Jerusalem Bird Observatory. A small patch of wetlands, with a concealed location where you can watch birds without disturbing them. Interesting birds are probably most frequent during the spring and autumn migrations. You are encouraged to bring bird food (seeds and so on) to spread in front of you to attract the birds to near you. Be quiet!
- 41 [dead link] Gazelle Valley (Pri-Har Valley). An urban nature reserve, the park is home to 30 gazelles. Not a great recreational site as it mostly lacks shade. Free.
Other sites
edit- 42 Zion Square (Kikar Tzion). While small by international city square standards, this square is a common location for political rallies, concerts, street culture, and other events. The light rail runs through here without stopping; the Jaffa Center and City Hall stations are a short walk away in either direction.
- 43 Safra Square. On Jaffa Street near the Old City. The square is surrounded by the municipality buildings (City Hall/"the Iriya"). Concerts and events are sometimes held in the square.
- Jerusalem City Model, at the Jerusalem City Hall (Safra Square, building 1), ☏ +972 2 629-7315. 10:00-12:30. A model of the city of Jerusalem, with every building painstakingly modeled at 1:500 scale. Planned buildings that have not yet been built are also included, in transparent plastic rather than their real colors. Covers all the significant parts of the city (though not the outer suburbs). Free tours are generally offered every 30 minutes 10:00-12:30 weekdays. No reservations are needed for individuals, but it is a good idea to check ahead of time. If you are lucky, they will then take you to the building roof (6th floor) to see one the best views in town, overlooking the Old City from the northwest. Tours are in Hebrew, but there's plenty to see even if you don't understand what you hear. Contact them, and you might be able to arrange an English tour. Free.
- 44 Chords Bridge (Gesher HaMeitarim). Designed by starchitect Santiago Calatrava, this monumental bridge carries the light rail over a major intersection at the entrance to Jerusalem. The bridge covers a vast sweeping span supported only by metal chords stretched at oblique angles. You can also walk across on a pedestrian path.
- 45 Jerusalem Biblical Zoo, Derech Aharon Shulov 1 (Near Malcha mall, next to Biblical Zoo train station), ☏ +972 2 675-0111. Su-Th 09:00-19:00, F (and holiday eves) 09:00-16:30, Sa (and holidays) 10:00-18:00. This zoo attracts more visitors than any other paid attraction in Israel. Decades ago, each animal was accompanied by descriptions of where it appeared in the Bible. However, nowadays there is not much Biblical about the zoo - it is simply a generic but quite nice zoo, where you can get very close to the animals. Outside the peccary exhibit is a big sign explaining why "This is not a pig!" in four languages, in case any Jerusalem residents might get offended!. Regular ₪50, Special discounts (children, students, etc.) ₪40.
- 46 [dead link] Jerusalem Botanical Gardens, at the university campus in Givat Ram, ☏ +972 2 648-0049, +972 73 243-8914. Su-Tu Th 09:30-17:00, F 09:00-15:00. Shows a variety of plants from around the world. Plants native to the region have interesting descriptions of their role in local history and religion. All exhibits are outdoors, which can make the garden unpleasantly hot in summer. Regular: ₪30, special discounts: ₪20.
- 47 Israel Aquarium, 1 Aharon Shulov, ☏ +972 73-3399000. Israel's only aquarium outside Eilat. Tickets must be purchased in advance for a specific entrance time. Entrance to the aquarium also lets you visit the butterfly/insect house which is next door (both aquarium and butterfly house are run by the same organization). Parking is available at the aquarium entrance. Bus access is by route 26a or walking from the zoo. Adult ₪50, child 3-18 ₪45, senior or student or disabled ₪35.
- 48 Sultan's Pool. A large water reservoir just outside the Old City. It likely dates to the time of Herod, and has been remodeled since then. Now, it is empty of water, and used to hold concerts and other large events.
- 49 Jerusalem YMCA, 26 King David (across the street from the King David Hotel). A West Jerusalem landmark, built in 1933. There is a tower with views of the surroundings. The view is not bad, but less impressive than one might expect (you can see part of the Old City walls, and the top of Dome of the Rock, but little else of note). Going up the tower costs ₪20 - inquire at the main desk and you should be able to go up with little delay. There are reports that unaccompanied individuals are not allowed up, so go with someone else. Besides the tower, the whole building and its surroundings are architecturally interesting and worth walking around.
- 50 Ramat Rachel. A prominent hill guarding what used to be the southern approach to Jerusalem. In the First Temple period there was a royal palace here. Its remains, as well as some later archaeological findings, can be seen freely outside. In 1948, the hill was conquered by Jordanian and Egyptian forces, but finally ended up in Israeli hands. There is an excellent view from here in all directions. Worth visiting for the well-explained archaeological site and for the view.
- 51 Mamilla Cemetery. Amid an old Muslim cemetery which contains graves of Muslim leaders, there is also a large ancient pool once used to hold water. The cemetery is now the center of some controversy, as the Center for Human Dignity (which will include the Museum of Tolerance) is expected to be constructed on the parking lot of the cemetery.
- 52 Jason's Tomb. A rock-cut tomb from the Maccabean period which belonged to someone named Jason, who once sailed to Egypt, according to an inscription. The tomb is freely accessible in a residential neighborhood, and well worth visiting if you are passing by.
- 53 Chalcolithic village. The remains of a 6000-year-old Chalcolithic village. Building ruins can be seen in a park just north of the Malcha shopping mall.
- 54 Around the world in 92 days, Betzalel 11. A multistory painting which depicts the world as seen from Jerusalem in "wide-eyed, childlike" form. Located on the wall of the Gerard Behar Center in Jerusalem. Cross to the north side of the street for a good view of the painting, with explanatory posts mounted in the sidewalk in front of you.
- 55 Hansen House, hansen@ranwolf.co.il. This complex was established in 1887 as a walled-off hospital for patients with leprosy. Nowadays, the grounds form a park, while the building (which is quite beautiful, particularly its internal courtyard) hosts art exhibitions and cultural events. There is also a tower with an impressive view.
- 56 HaMiffal, HaMaaravim 3. An art and cultural center, open to the public and featuring galleries, workshops, performances, and more. Free admission.
- 57 Mount Zion tunnel. Between 1948 and 1967, West Jerusalem and Mount Zion were under Israeli control, but the only access between them was vulnerable to Jordanian sniper fire from the Old City walls. To avoid this fire, a secret tunnel was dug so that Mount Zion could be safely supplied. Part of the tunnel was neglected and destroyed after 1967, but the remainder has been restored and you can walk up the mountain through it.
- 58 Motorcycle models, Beit Hayotzer 6 (In the alleyway between the two buildings). In the heart of Jerusalem's most industrial district, one of the metalworkers has a hobby of making beautiful metal toy motorcycles which are displayed in his shop. Each model has a unique appearance and name, and if you speak Hebrew he'll happily spend ten minutes explaining the symbolism behind their designs.
- 59 Beta Israel Memorial (אתר ההנצחה לזכר יהודי אתיופיה שנספו בדרכם לישראל). Memorial site dedicated to the Ethiopian Jews who perished during their exodus to Israel in the 1970s and 80s.
Do
edit- 1 All Nations Cafe (Refa'im Valley, near the Malha train station). If you are interested in learning first hand about the delicate fabric of life in Jerusalem, this cafe offers a social, cultural and ecological experience for both locals and internationals.
- 2 First Station (HaTachana HaRishona). Between 1892 and 1998, Jerusalem's train station was located here, not too far from the Old City. The station has since been reopened as an entertainment destination, with restaurants, shops, concerts, and more. There is something going on here every evening. A very nice linear park/bike path extends south from here all the way to Malha.
- 3 Great Synagogue, King George St 56, ☏ +972 2-625-5361, jgs@zahav.net.il. Built in 1982, this synagogue seats 1400 people and was intended to function as Jerusalem's central synagogue. Prayers are held regularly here. Sabbath prayers here are often conducted with a professional choir.
- 4 Ein Yael. A living museum where farming and crafts techniques are demonstrated in a natural setting. Good for children, not adults.
- 5 National Library. The world's largest collection of Jewish books and records. The place to go for in-depth research about Judaism or Israel. Located on the Hebrew University's Givat Ram campus.
- 6 Cinema City. A modern movie theater/shopping mall. Full of loud flashing signs and life-sized movie character figurines, it is the definition of tacky. You'll spend the rest of your trip wondering how they got approval to build it across the street from the Supreme Court. But it is a reasonable place to get lunch after a trip to the Knesset, or to see a movie.
- 7 Yellow Submarine, HaRechavim 13, Talpiyot. Jerusalem's center for music. On almost every night a concert is held here. The genre varies between indie, jazz, electronic, and more. Performers are mostly Israeli, with the occasional foreign artist or group.
- 8 Beit Avi Hai, 44 King George. A cultural center hosting music, theater, poetry, scholarly lectures, and other events in both Hebrew and English.
Buy
edit- 1 City center. Formed by the triangle of Ben Yehuda Street (pedestrianized), Jaffa Road, and King George St. ("Rehov King George"). These streets, and the network of small streets in between them, represent the main shopping district of West Jerusalem. In addition to the usual range of stores for residents, there are many Judaica and tourist-oriented shops here.
- 2 Pomeranz bookstore, 5 Beeri. The best place in Jerusalem to buy English-language books about Judaism and Israel.
- 3 Mahane Yehuda (the Shuk), Jaffa 119 (Mahane Yehuda light rail stop). This is the main outdoor market of West Jerusalem. Large, loud, and labyrinthine, the market boasts a huge number of stalls, generally open Su-Th 08:00-20:00, F 08:00-15:00, closed Shabbat. Fresh produce, pastries, salads abound. Definitely the place for a bargain and a unique insight into traditional Israeli culture. When the shops close in the evening, the night life opens up - in the last few years the Shuk has become a destination for bars, restaurants, and music at night.
- 4 Mamilla. On the border between West Jerusalem and the Old City, this was an important commercial zone before 1948, but then became a DMZ between Israeli and Jordanian forces. After 1967 Mamilla was rebuilt, and now it is a beautiful pedestrian mall lined by upscale stores, fitting in perfectly with West Jerusalem on one end and Jaffa Gate on the other.
- 5 Malha Mall (Kanyon Malha) (take the 77 bus from the city center, or the 6 or 31 from the Central Bus Station). Jerusalem's main indoor shopping mall. Usually very crowded.
Eat
editIsraeli
edit- 1 The Eucalyptus (in the Artists Colony (Hutzot HaYotzer) by the Old City). Biblical Israeli cuisine best known for its "shir hashirim (Song of Songs)" tasting menu. There is a view of the David Citadel from the restaurant and the chefs are internationally acclaimed. Reservations recommended. Kosher.
- 2 Shalom Felafel, 36 Bezalel. Su-Th 11:00–20:30. The classic Jerusalem Falafel place. Kosher.
- 3 Melech HaFalafel VeHaShawarma (Falafel and Shawarma King) (Agrippas and King George). Cheap and fair. Be sure to try your falafel with "amba", a delicious mango-based condiment that you cannot get outside of the region easily. Kosher.
- HaSabikh (Past Ben Yehuda on the right). Home to the tastiest Sabikh in the city, in pita made fresh at the restaurant.
- Steakiat Tzidkiyahu, Yad Harutzim 21, Talpiot. Israeli "Steakiya" place, which is to say various types of meat on skewers. About ₪45-60 per person but very good. Also they will fill your table with various Israeli salads and fresh bread. Amazing value! Kosher Mehadrin l'Mehadrin.
- 4 Bein Aza LeBerlin (From Gaza to Berlin), 55 Gaza St. At the corner of Gaza St and Berlin St, with a second branch downtown. A small and friendly place selling hummus and falafel, has excellent Kube soup of different types. Coming here on a Friday afternoon is a truly classic Israeli experience. Kosher.
- 5 Masudi, Jaffa 82. A variety of tasty Israel and Jewish dishes, including shawarma and cholent.
Middle Eastern
edit- 6 Marvad Haksammim (16 King George St; 1 Rachel Imenu St). With its large serving sizes this is one of the best places for Yemenite food in the city. Be sure to try the Kuba soup (red, sweet, and spicy with round meat dumplings), Saluf (think large, thick, and crispy burritos), Shakshuka (poached eggs in tomato sauce), and Malawakh (doughy sweet pancake). Entrees are ₪15-40. Kosher.
- Hashipudia, 6 Ha-Shikma. This restaurant exclusively prepares skewers of lamb, beef, hearts and livers, geese and chicken breast, and goose liver. Also, it bakes fresh Iraqi pita bread every afternoon. Not Kosher, it is Halal though.
- 7 Imbala, 3 Yanai St, Jerusalem, Israel, imbala.membership@gmail.com. Imbala is a 100% vegan, member-run cooperative that serves food & drinks. It serves as an Israeli/Palestinian/queer/leftist/*-inclusive space that's multigenerational and multilingual. Come have a sandwich, coffee, and browse through their zines or other feminist/queer/marxist/Israeli/Palestinian literature. ₪15-25.
- 8 Felafel HaTeimani, Haneviim 50. Known for the variety of different kinds of bread that you can get your felafel wrapped in, besides the usual pita and lafa.
American
edit- 9 Burgers Bar, Shamai 12; Yafo 34; other locations. A hamburger chain with branches throughout the city (and elsewhere). They have relatively slow and sloppy service and questionable hygiene at busy hours. The food is relatively cheap, about ₪50 for a 150g hamburger, fries and a soft drink. Kosher.
- 10 New Deli, Hillel 24; Jaffa 34; Emek Refaim 44. Su-Th 11AM-3AM; F Sa hours vary by branch. A sandwich chain. Kosher.
- Meat Burger (Hillel St). Burger, fries, and drink ₪35-45. Not Kosher.
- 11 Mike's Place, 33 Jaffa Rd. Live-music sports bar and grill, with a large international menu including American and Tex-Mex standards. The only branch of the Mike's Place chain that is Kosher. Mike's Place opened in Jerusalem in 1992, and is a landmark of Jerusalem nightlife.
Italian
edit- 12 Agas Vetapuah, Safra Square 6, ☏ +972 2-6230280. Su-Th 11:00-23:00, Sa after Sabbath-midnight. Considered to be among the best Italian restaurants in Jerusalem. The restaurant is owned by Yonatan Ottolenghi, an Italian from Milano, who is often in the restaurant and sells his handmade liqueur in the restaurant. The restaurant serves various Italian dishes such as: pizzas, pastas, lasagnas and antipasti; and its blintzes are famed throughout Jerusalem. OU Kosher.
- 13 Anna, HaRav Agan 10, ☏ +972 2 543-4144. A landmark Jerusalem restaurant. Located in the historic Ticho House. Kosher.
Cafes
edit- 14 Cafe Kadosh, 6 Shlomzion HaMalka St, ☏ +972 2-6254210. Founded in 1967, this cafe is considered to be one of the best in Jerusalem. Serving excellent pastries, eggs and pastas; you will feel like you are in Europe. Reservations are recommended, especially on Fridays. Kosher.
- 15 Tmol Shilshom, Yoel Moshe Solomon 5, ☏ +972 2 623-2758. This cafe/bookstore is the top destination for Jerusalem's literati. In addition to serving food and coffee, there are frequently scheduled cultural events such as lectures and musical performances held while you eat. Kosher.
Other
edit- 16 Village Green, 33 Jaffa Rd. A highly regarded vegetarian restaurant with homemade soups, mains, bread and salads. Main course ₪25. Open Su-Th 11:00-22:00, F 11:00-15:00. Kosher.
Drink
editThere is plenty of nightlife in Jerusalem. Mostly it is in the city center or the Talpiyot district. For clubs, the best way is to have a "proteksya", or connection with someone. This way of knowing someone who works at the door or a friend is the easiest and best way to have a great time in Jerusalem. In the way of a more laid-back alternative bar scene, crawl around the closely nestled joints centered around the corner of Heleni HaMaika and Monbaz.
- HAOMAN 17, 17 HaOman St, Talpiyot Industrial Area. Open Thursday and Friday nights. Opens around midnight, closes well after sunrise. One of the top-rated night clubs in the world. DJs from around the world entertain beautiful people into the morning hours with live house-techno music. The long line prefers well dressed, attractive people. Flashing a University ID helps you get through the crowd on a busy night. Go with friends, as the club is in an industrial area (not the safest place to be alone at night). Do not argue with the regulars, as people have been assaulted in the past. The most fun Thursday night in Jerusalem. Cover is ₪80-120.
- 1 The Cassette, 1 Horkenous St, ☏ +972 54-7263567. Su-Th and Sa 20:00-04:00, F 21:20-04:00. With the electric conduits forming a vine pattern over your head in its crypt-like backroom, this bar screams 'talk to me about philosophy' while experimental music plays in the background. The customers are the sort of people you'd find lounging around in art student's dorm room--in the best way possible. ₪18 beer and ₪6 chaser.
- 2 Ha-Tipa, Hadekel 2. Small neighborhood pub on the outskirts of the Machaneh Yehuda market. Very cheap alcohol, good music and photo gallery.
- 3 Sira, Ben-Sira 4, ☏ +972 2 6234366. Su-Th 16:00-03:00, F Sa 14:00-05:00. A manifold and interesting pub. Live DJs every night. Jazz and mellow during the day.
- 4 Prague, Rivlin 6, ratnerdaniel@gmail.com. 18:30 till the last customer. An east European bar restaurant offering some great ethnic food together with big amount of draught beers and some exclusive attractions. ₪40-60.
- 5 Birman (Musical Bistro), Dorot Rishonim 8 (pedestrin mall, downtown Jerusalem), ☏ +972 50 299-0059. Musical bistro: live music every night. For art, music & good food lovers. Open daily 19:00 till late hours, Friday 13:00 – Sabbath, closed Saturday.
- Izen Bar, Dereh Beit Lehem 7 (Old Train Station), izenbar@gmail.com. Izen Bar has been the highest rated bar in Jerusalem. It's open Thursday, Friday & Saturday (sometimes also earlier in the week). Located outdoors, there are DJs playing popular high beating tunes into the early morning. Also known for its happy atmosphere, dancers, drummers, saxophonists, and different theme nights. Food and snacks are served all night. It's recommendable to come early to avoid long lines.
- Angelica, Shatz 7 (any bus to King George Street, exit at Cafe Joe), ☏ +972 2 623-0056. The only bar in Jerusalem serving classic cocktails using freshly muddled fruits and vegetables. Elegant atmosphere and the best drinks in town.
- Glen whisk(e)y bar, 18 Shlomtzion st. (mamila area), ☏ +792-54-9010076. 20:00 till last customer. A proper English bar, very close to the old city with 17 taps of beers from Israel and all other the world, the bar has its' own beer on tap! It's a whisk(e)y bar with over 100 types of single malt whiskies. You can meet locals from Jerusalem and students from all over Israel. It plays mostly rock music. Sometimes hosts a live bands and has simple but good food. ~₪30.
Sleep
editBudget
edit- 1 Stay Inn Hostel, 21 King George St., ☏ +972 3-508-5960. Highly rated on various websites. Dorm bed from ₪72.
- 2 The Post Hostel Jerusalem, Jaffa 23, ☏ +972 2-581-3222. 2nd best hostel in this district. Member of ILH. Dorm bed from ₪76.
- 3 Jerusalem Hostel, 44 Jaffa Rd (Opposite Zion Square), ☏ +972 2-6236102. No curfew. Clean hostel on Zion Square. Member of ILH. Dorm: ₪80; private room: starting from ₪230.
- 4 Avraham Hostel, 67 Hanevi'im (at Davidka Square, 20-minute walk from the Old City along Jaffa St.; 15 minutes from the Central Bus Station), ☏ +972 2-6502200, infojlm@abrahamhostels.com. Popular, larger hostel that keeps a community feel. Free breakfast, WiFi, and Old City tour. Member of ILH.
Mid-range
edit- 5 Jerusalem Gate Hotel, 43 Yirmiyahu St, ☏ +972 2-5008500. At the entrance to Jerusalem with bar, coffee shop and banquet halls. The cuisine is international with Glatt Kosher LeMehadrin Rabbinate Supervision. From ₪300.
- 6 [formerly dead link] Jerusalem Inn, 7 Horkanos St. +972 2-625-2757. Israeli buffet breakfast and free WiFi included in the price. All rooms have a private bath and toilet, a balcony, TV, airconditioning, mini-bar and a safe. From ₪300.
- 7 Jerusalem Gardens, 4 Vilnay Street, ☏ +972 2-655-8888. A short walk from the Bridge of Strings, in central Jerusalem. Nicely-appointed rooms and numerous dining options. From ₪400.
- 8 [formerly dead link] Montefiore Hotel, 7 Shatz St. From ₪400.
- 9 St. Andrew's Scottish Guest House, David Remez St 1, ☏ +972 2-673-2401, info@scotsguesthouse.com. No curfew. Overlooks the Hinnom Valley and located between Mishkenot Shaananim/Yemin Moshe district and Emek Refaim. Single: ₪360.
- 10 Crowne Plaza, Givat RamHaAliya St 1, ☏ +972 2-658-8888. From ₪400.
- 11 Rimonim Jerusalem, 24 Shachrai St, Bait Va'gan, ☏ +972 2-675-2222. From ₪380.
- 12 Colony Suites, Hananya St (German Colony), ☏ +972 2-563-9274. Self-contained, serviced vacation apartments for short term let. US$50-180.
- 13 Grand Court Hotel, St. George St 15, ☏ +97225917777, Reservation@GrandCourt.co.il. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. A large hotel, featuring 442 rooms, among them sizable family rooms, specially designed rooms for handicapped guests, presidential suites, deluxe suites and junior suites. All new rooms are equipped with modern amenities.
Splurge
edit
- 14 King David Hotel, King David St 23, ☏ +972 2 620 8888. Jerusalem's most famous and historic hotel has welcomed visitors since 1931. One of the landmarks in the city, it has been the residence to monarchs, heads of state in exile as well as the venue for hosting dignitaries when visiting Jerusalem. The hotel offers all amenities one can expect from a 5-star luxury hotel. The ground floor is decorated in the style current in David and Solomon's time. There are several bars and restaurants which are open for visitors. Rooms start at ₪1900.
- 15 Prima Palace, 2 Pines St, ☏ +972 2-531-1811, fax: +972-2-6544388, palace@prima.co.il. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 13:00. From ₪520.
- 16 Tower Hotel Jerusalem, 23 Hillel st., ☏ +972 2-620-9209. From ₪536.
- 17 Dan Boutique Jerusalem Hotel, 31 Hevron Rd, DanBoutiqueJlm@danhotels.com. A 15-minute walk from the Old City's Jaffa Gate, this is a cosy hotel with 129 rooms. From ₪580.
- 18 Prima Royale, 3 Mendele Mocher Sfarim St, ☏ +972 2-560-7111, fax: +972-2-654-4393, royale@prima.co.il. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 13:00. From ₪600.
- 19 Prima Kings, 60 King George St, ☏ +972 2-620-1201, fax: +972-2-6544366, kings@prima.co.il. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 13:00. Landmark at the heart of Jerusalem. From ₪600.
- 20 Jerusalem YMCA International Three Arches Hotel, King David 26, ☏ +972 2-569-2692, panoramajlm@danhotels.com. Architecturally distinguished. Prices are definitely upper middle-range. From ₪590.
- 21 Harmony Hotel Jerusalem, 6 Yoel Moshe Salomon St (Nahalat Sheva), ☏ +972 2-621-9999. Open 24 hr. From ₪640.
- 22 [dead link] Ella Residence Suites Hotel, 21 Hadishon St, ☏ +972 2-6781925, fax: +972 2-6799989, ella.residence.hotel@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Furnished suites. US$180.
- 23 Dan Panorama Jerusalem, 39 Keren Hayesod St', 94188, ☏ +972 2-569-5695, panoramajlm@danhotels.com. Centrally located hotel. From ₪700.
- 24 David Citadel Hotel (formerly the Jerusalem Hilton Hotel), 7 King David St., ☏ +972 2-621-1111, reservations@tdchotel.com. ₪1320.
- 25 Inbal Jerusalem Hotel, Liberty Bell Park, 3, Jabotinsky St, ☏ +972 2-675-6666, toll-free: +1 877 443-7443 (USA). A five-star hotel with 283 rooms and suites, a spa, pool and gym. ₪1000.
- 26 Mamilla Jerusalem Hotel, 11 King Solomon St, ☏ +972 2-5482222, fax: +972 2-5482220. A 5-star hotel in the City Center near the Old City few minutes walk from Jaffa Gate, Tower of David and Alrov Mamilla Avenue. ₪1200.
- 27 VERT Jerusalem (by the Jerusalem International Convention Center, at the city’s entrance.), ☏ +972 02-6588888, jm_recdep1@afi-hotels.co.il. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 15:00. With a view in the Givat Ram neighborhood.
- 28 Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem, Gershon Agron St 26-28 (500 m west of Jaffa Gate), ☏ +972 2 542 3333. First opened in 1929 as The Palace Hotel and relaunched in 2014. Close to Old Jerusalem and offers a luxurious atmosphere and comfort.