How to Make a Network Cable

Co-authored by Ricardo Mitchell

Last Updated: September 9, 2024 Approved

It is often cheaper and easier to use ready-made network cables, but if the cable is inside equipment where it must be an exact length or it goes through a hole that is too small for the connector (or plug), you will need to add plugs yourself. This is fairly easy because Cat 5 cable construction guidelines are straight-forward. However, the process requires attention to detail and careful handling of the wires, connectors, and tools. The process laid out in this wikiHow gives all the details for making a Cat 5 patch cable and the same general method will work for making network cables of any category.

By the way, Cat 5 is short for the General Ethernet Category 5 industry standards.
These are jointly set by the Telecommunications Industry Association (TIA) and the Electronic Industries Alliance (EIA).

Part 1

Part 1 of 5:

Cutting the Cable to Length

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If a boot is to be fitted, do so before stripping away the sleeve and ensure the boot faces the correct way. Please note that the cable length should not exceed 100m (300') to prevent signal attenuation (diminishment). Network cables up to this length retain good signal strength and quality.

Part 2

Part 2 of 5:

Preparing the Cable Ends

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1
Remove about 1½" (40mm) of the outer cable jacket. Be careful when stripping the jacket not to nick or cut the internal wiring or its insulation. One good way to do this is to cut lengthwise with snips. Alternatively, cut with a small knife along the side of the cable, away from the wires that are bundled inside and away from yourself. Make the cut about 1½" (40mm) long.
- Locate the rip string bundled inside and unzip the cable jacket by holding the jacket in one hand and pulling sideways with the string. If no string is inside, use the wires themselves to unzip the jacket.
- Cut away the unzipped jacket and trim the twisted pairs to about 1¼" (30mm). You will see 8 wires twisted in 4 pairs. Each pair will have one wire of a certain color and another wire that is white with a stripe of matching color.
  - Twisting the wire pairs minimizes interference and crosstalk while allowing the cable to be traced. Therefore, each pair should be left twisted along as much length as is practicable.
Look carefully. If you have breached the protective insulation of any wire, you will need to cut the entire segment of wires off and start over. Exposed copper wire will lead to cross-talk, poor performance, and, potentially, to no connectivity at all. It is critical that the insulation for each individual wire remains intact and unscathed.
3
Untwist enough of the exposed wire pairs so they can lay flat between your fingers. The white piece of rip thread can be cut off even with the jacket and disposed of.
- For easier handling, further trim the wires so that they are ¾" (20mm) long and even. Their final length will be ½" (12.5mm) and you can trim the wires to this shorter length at this time as long as they are exactly even. The shorter lengths might be a little harder to manipulate, but they will be manageable.
4
Arrange the wires as specified by your standards diagram. There are two standards jointly set by the TIA and EIA– T-568A and T-568B. Which you use depends on what is being connected.
- A straight-through cable with both ends configured to the T-568B standard is used to connect two dissimilar devices (e.g. a hub and a PC).
- Two "like" devices normally require a cross-over cable with one configured as T-168A and the other as T-168B.^{[1]
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Part 3

Part 3 of 5:

Making a Cross-Over Cable

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1
Work on each of the cable ends individually. One will be configured as T-168B and the other as T-168A.
- For T-168B, put the wires in the following order from left to right:
  - white orange
  - orange
  - white green
  - blue
  - white blue
  - green
  - white brown
  - brown
- For T-568A use (from left to right):
  - white green
  - green
  - white orange
  - blue
  - white blue
  - orange
  - white brown
  - brown
- The corresponding pairings for a cross-over cable are 1-2-3-6/3-6-1-2.
Verify the colors have remained in the correct order and, if you have not done so already, cut the wires even with one another so that they are ½" (12.5mm) long from the base of the jacket. Note that the jacket needs to go ⅛" (6mm) into the 8P8C (8 position; 8 contact) connector and the half-inch length of each wire is perfect for routing and seating the individual wires within the 8P8C connector, also referred to as a plug or jack.
3
Push the wires into the 8P8C plug with the flat surface of the plug on top. With the white/orange wire on the left (looking down at the flat surface of the plug), ensure that you keep the wires flat and in order as you insert the wires.
- You may have to use moderate effort to push the pairs firmly into the plug.
- You can tell if all the wires made it into the jack and have maintained their positions by looking head-on at the plug. You should be able to see a wire located in each hole, as seen at the bottom right.
- The cable jacket should also go into the plug. It should go in about ⅛" (6 mm) and will help secure the cable once the plug is crimped. (You may need to stretch the sleeve slightly to achieve enough depth.)
4
Place the wired plug into the crimping tool. Verify that the sequence is still correct before crimping, then give the handle a firm squeeze. You should hear a ratcheting sound as you continue. Once you have completed the crimp, the handle will reset to the open position.
- To ensure all pins are set, some individuals prefer to double crimp by repeating this step.
Repeat the steps starting with preparing the cable ends on the other end of the cable. The way you wire the other end (T-568A or T-568B) will depend on whether you're making a straight-through or cross-over cable.

Part 4

Part 4 of 5:

Testing the Network Cable

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1
Test the cable to ensure that it will function in the field. Mis-wired or faulty network cables will lead to unnecessary downtime.
- A simple cable tester can accurately verify proper wire positions, connections, and continuity. If, however, you do not have a network cable tester on hand, you can test connectivity pin to pin with a continuity tester.

Part 5

Part 5 of 5:

installing a Connector with a Frame

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Some connectors come with small plastic frames into which all 8 wires can be inserted. Subsequently, the frame assembly is pushed into the connector and crimping is done. This makes it easier to be sure that the wires are in the right order and that they will make it all the way to the plug contacts.

This makes it easy to inserted the wires into the frame one by one. The wires go through the frame and emerge on the opposite side where they can be trimmed to all be equal in length.
Only one orientation results in a working plug. The image (above) shows the correct orientation of the frame for that connector.

Community Q&A

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Question

Can Cat5e cables be wired in series, or should they be parallel for different jack locations?

Community Answer

Cat5e for network purposes is used in point-to-point topology. Simple: one socket or jack equals one wire.

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How do I strip the cable ends?

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You should use a wire stripper. However, it is possible to do it with scissors, with a bit of force and hassle.

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What is the difference between cut five and cut six?

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The wire thickness and the procedure of making a custom cable is a tad different.

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Tips

Cat 5 and Cat 5e are very similar cables, however Cat 5e offers better speed, bandwidth, and shielding so it is preferred, especially on longer runs.

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Always keep boxes of network cable resting on one of the four 'end' surfaces, never on one of its two sides. This minimizes loops falling across each other inside the box and causing binding and knots.

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Remember when making Ethernet patch cords that the "twists" in the individual pairs should remain entwined along the greatest length possible. Twisting keeps minimizes cross-talk (interference) and helps to ensure good connectivity. Do not untwist the wires any more than you need to.

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Warnings

Fire Codes require a special type of cover over the wires if the cabling is to be installed in ceilings or other areas that are exposed to the building ventilation system. This is usually referred to as plenum-grade cable or simply "plenum cable" and this cable does not release toxic fumes when burned. Plenum cabling is more costly, perhaps double that of ordinary cable, so only use it where necessary. Riser cable is similar to plenum, but is for use in walls or wiring closets to connect between floors. Riser cannot be used where, by code, plenum cable is specified. Be aware of where your cable runs are routed and use the appropriate cable. If in doubt, use plenum as it has the strictest and safest ratings.

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Be aware of any shielding your cable may have or need. The most common type of cable is UTP (Unshielded Twisted Pair), but a number of shielding/foiling options exist for added protection against EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference). Be aware of what you are purchasing and what you need. In most environments, UTP will be fine.

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The rip strings, if present, are usually quite strong, Do not attempt to break them. Instead, always cut them.

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Things You'll Need

Crimper - This is the most essential tool and critical to the cable-making process. If you don't have a quality crimper, then your cable connections may be inferior and fail over time. Many better quality crimpers have a ratcheting controlled closure for precise crimping. Crimpers with a plastic body will be more likely to develop a sloppy hip joint and give consistently poor cramps. Therefore, metal crimper is much preferred and is commonly used.
Tester (Optional) - A good cable tester can prevent configuration and installation problems. Most testers consist of two boxes– a transmitter and a receiver you plug your patch cable into. The transmitter box sends test pulses down each individual wire, lighting up LEDs on the receiver box. Most testers will show you a result as a pass or fail. Remember that cable, even slightly damaged, might cause packet loss and data corruption.
Connectors - Ensure your connectors are designed for the type of cable you are using (solid or stranded) as they have different types of teeth for piercing between multiple strands or around a solid single strand. Note: if you ask in an electrical trades store for 8P8C connectors, you may be asked whether you want "solid", "stranded" or "flat". The "flat" choice relates to the old flat "silver satin" cables used in 10Base-T, and should not be used in newer Ethernet deployments.
Bulk Cable - Bulk cable can be found at computer stores, electrical stores, and home centers. You can obtain Category 5, Category 5e, and Category 6 cable, depending on your needs. For lengths shorter than 50' use a stranded/braided cable. For lengths greater than 50' use a solid cable.
- There are two types of wire (solid or stranded) and which one you choose should be based on where and how the patch cable is to be used. See warning above about PLENUM cable. Stranded wire is best for a workstation patch as it can tolerate flexing without cracking the conductors; however, the trade off is that they're more susceptible to moisture penetration. Solid is best used in a wire closet or for a patch that will be moved very infrequently, as the conductor tends to crack if bent and/or flexed. Cracked conductor leads to "reflections" which make for chatter on the LAN connection, hampering speed and reliability.
Boots (optional but preferred). It saves the cable in the long run and improves the looks. A boot is a molded piece of plastic that protects the connector from snagging, if it is pulled through the wall or conduit. It also provides strain relief on the cable, making it harder for the connector to be pulled off.
Straight edge wire cutter. You may find serrated snips work very nicely. Use something that gives an easy square cut; avoid diagonal pliers for this reason. You will find that many quality crimpers have a straight edge cutter built in.
Fish Tape - Fish tape is either a metal or plastic spool of guide wire. Strong enough not to buckle and bend while being pushed around, but flexible enough to be pushed past corners and bends, fish tape is a vital tool for some cable runs. Recommended applications include: conduit, within walls, along structural beams and girders, in ducting, plenums, and dropped ceilings, or any situation where it's not physically possible to drag the cable along with you.